It was a quiet Monday
inside the shop at John's Bayou Marina, and storekeepers Lana
Middleton and Ruthie Eike sat at a table chatting and smoking
cigarettes.
The store felt like a clubhouse. Beat-up armchairs occupy the
corners. A pool table at the center ties the room together.
A glass-fronted cooler behind the counter is stocked with beer.
Sliced bread, bags of potato chips, canned goods and other groceries
line a shelf on the opposite wall.
Trophy fish decorate a wall above the windows. Polaroids of
people having a good time cover a bulletin board next to the
door.
Middleton doesn't work at the store normally but was filling in
for a friend. She's lived in the Bluff Creek community, located off
Mississippi 57 in Jackson County, since 1979.
"Everybody knows everybody, mostly," she said.
Eike moved there about two years ago.
"I love it here," she said. "I've lived other places, but it's
special here. I've met the kind of friends that if you need them at
2 o'clock in the morning, they'll come."
Moments later, the screen door flew open and four guys in
swimming trunks walked in. Three of them made for the pool table,
racked the balls and started a game.
The fourth, Gerald Dickerson, grabbed a bottle of Miller High
Life from the cooler.
He cracked it open and took a sip. Then he paid.
Trulon Pitts, a small man with a wrinkled face, joined Dickerson
by the cash register. Dickerson joked that Pitts is the oldest man
to ever pose in Playgirl magazine.
Pitts smiled.
They'd been tooling around in Pitts' pontoon boat. Dickerson
bought more beer. The younger guys leaned their pool cues against
the wall and headed for the boat.
Pine Island was their next stop. The island is the hub of the
area's social scene.
"It's just an island," Middleton said. "People go water-skiing,
play dominoes, soak up the sun. Years back, we had a volleyball
court out there, but it got vandalized. You'd be surprised at how
many people don't know it even exists."
Pine Island
Pitts has navigated the twisting bayou off the Pascagoula River
since retiring to the area from Jones County 12 years ago.
He gripped a Miller Lite and piloted his pontoon boat toward Pine
Island. He revels in the easy-going lifestyle along the river.
Before boarding the boat that Saturday morning, he relaxed with a
group of his friends and neighbors in his garage, drinking beers and
bloody Marys as if tailgating before an Ole Miss game.
Posters featuring bikini-clad models and Bud Light and Miller
Lite banners decorate the garage walls.
"It's a good time," he said, steering the boat. "All the
neighbors, we get together and cook out all the time."
He pointed to a big house on the banks. The side of the house
facing the water seemed entirely composed of windows.
"You know the band 3 Doors Down?" he said. "One of them, I don't
know which one, owns that place."
There's a rope swing on Pine Island's shore. Camping tents were
pitched on a bluff overlooking the beach.
Monty Holden relaxed in a beach chair next to his boat. It was
quiet, and Holden's was the only boat "parked" on the small
beach.
"You won't be able to find a place to park in a few hours," he
said.
Holden, 50, has lived about a mile through the woods from Pine
Island his entire life. A pipe supervisor at Northrop Grumman
Ingalls shipyard, he splits much of his leisure time between
dog-hunting deer and carousing on the river.
"I still hunt the same place I hunted 40 years ago on the river,"
he said. "... Vancleave is one of the fastest growing places, so
it's unusual to have a place to hunt that hasn't changed."
Pine Island is his weekend hangout.
"We come out here every Saturday, at least ever since February,"
he said. "There's tons of characters out here."
Holden said Pine Island is a local treasure.
"About the same people come out here that came out here 40 years
ago," he said.
Susan Holden said there are adults visiting Pine Island now whom
she remembers scurrying around there as children
"We're not changing their diapers anymore, we're giving them
beers instead," she said.
About a dozen beer cans were strewn along a steep bank behind
Holden.
He said they do their best to keep the island clean.
"You see that right there," he said, pointing to the beer cans.
"That won't be there when we leave."
Sumerlin Bayou
Pitts steered the boat south of Pine Island into Sumerlin Bayou.
Wild rice grows along the banks at the bayou's entrance. Farther
downstream, the bayou narrows and houseboats form a long, winding
line on the edge of the woods.
Most of the houseboats have covered porches. One of the boats is
nothing more than an old camper set on a barge.
"Usually when I come through here I put a Cajun CD on and people
come out and dance," Pitts said.
Larry "Goober" Salter stood on the deck of his houseboat and
dropped a fishing line into the water.
Salter, 63, wore a baseball cap high on his head. He had a pouch
of chewing tobacco in his pocket. He got the nickname while working
at the shipyard.
"People thought I was a nut," he said.
Salter bought his houseboat more than six years ago.
"The fishing here is usually pretty great," he said. "I've been
fishing and going through here for 30 years."
He said he's proud of the river neighborhood.
"Everybody out here has got a concern about keeping it nice," he
said. "It's a treasure that needs to be protected."
Pitts navigated through the twisting bayou and overhanging tree
limbs. The woods, thick with ferns, seem prehistoric.
It started sprinkling.
"This won't last long," Pitts said.
He was wrong. It poured in sheets for more than 20 minutes.
Soaked, Pitts turned the boat around and headed home.
He returned to his garage where he got himself a beer and took a
load off.
Soon friends arrived, also Jones County natives, and sat down at
the plastic table.
In the ensuing discussion, someone suggested Pitts get a job. He
smiled.
"I had a dream about work the other day," he said. "It was a
nightmare."