Kenneth Grahme, from "The Wind in the Willows"
Charles Kuralt,
"On the Road" traveler and author
The world knows little
about the Pascagoula River and its tales of UFOs, pirate treasure,
outlaws, changeling animals, Indian mounds and the river that sings.
These stories, if more widely recognized, would add depth to
attempts to save America's most pristine river.
"We took this river for granted when we were growing up - the
animals, the stories, the plants, the water," said Lynn McCoy, who
with his brother now runs McCoy's River & Marsh Tours. "The
river is second nature to us, and we didn't realize how unique it
is."
This mixture of fact and fiction cannot be found in one book or
one research file. Like the river basin itself, the tales are spread
out. Both ancient and new. Believable and unbelievable. Horrifying
and hilarious.
"We believed there were Nazi submarines out there in the river,
and we would go out and imagine we were shooting Nazi subs off the
bridges," said Jay Higginbotham, 65, author and retired Mobile
archivist who spent his youth in Pascagoula, the city at the river's
south end.
"We sunk about 13 subs during World War II, and now that I'm
older I realize there is some basis in our game because it was the
war. We'd also go looking for stuff that we heard the pirate Jean
Lafitte had buried. Never did find anything.
"The river is a perfect place for a young person's
imagination."
Adult imaginations, too.
The oldest legends are explanations of why the river makes a
singing sound, and those relate to the Pascagoula Indian tribe. From
earlier times also come explanations of why the opossum's tail is
hairless, why Spanish moss drips from trees and why treasure-hunter
holes mysteriously appear along the river basin.
The best known modern story was born on Oct. 11, 1973. On that
day, headlines flashed across the country that an unidentified
flying object snatched two shipyard workers fishing south of the
East Pascagoula River Bridge. Charles Hickson, 45, and Calvin
Parker, 19, claimed they were whisked into a spacecraft and examined
by an eyelike machine.
The snatching happened about 8 p.m., and they were too frightened
to tell anyone until 11 p.m., when they contacted the sheriff's
department. Their demeanor and a lie detector test convinced
deputies they were telling the truth, and the story touched off a
flurry of UFO sightings across the U.S.
Parker, who suffered mentally from the ordeal, lives in Louisiana
and seldom talks about the incident, but Hickson published a book
and has appeared on national talk shows. Now living in Gautier,
Hickson occasionally talks publicly about that day and other
memories brought out by hypnosis.
Those strange singing
sounds
The Pascagoula UFO adds to the mystique of a river that captured
man's imagination before written records. An earlier example is the
Singing River legend and the many versions that explain why the
tribe "disappeared."
In modern times the most repeated one has the Pascagoulas walking
into the river, singing, rather than become enslaved by the warlike
Biloxi tribe.
Singing River today is a nickname for a section of the southern
end of the split river. Many believe it to be the East Pascagoula,
but others claim they have heard the river's mysterious music on the
West Pascagoula, or even farther up.
West-side believers were unhappy in 1987 when state legislators
designated the section near the U.S. 90 east river bridge to be
"henceforth known as The Singing River." Long-time disagreements
over location, however, can't squelch the legend. The Chronicle-Star
offered this in 1925:
"If you hear the mysterious music of the Pascagoula, you must
imagine the wide extends of salt marshes that divide the East and
the West Pascagoula rivers; you must see these marshes shimmering in
the light of the moon just risen over the dark mass of pine forests
that marks the shores of the river; you must see the stars and pines
and oaks reflected in the clear waters."
So what causes the noise that some imagine is singing? A 1930s
Works Progress Administration report suggested geological fissures
that allow escaping gases in the water and marsh grasses. Fish,
particularly drum, have been blamed, as have winds whipping on the
river bank.
"I've heard it myself," said Liz Ford, chairwoman of the City of
Pascagoula Preservation Committee. "As a child I heard it sing and
didn't realize that I would not hear it forever."
A young Ford heard the music on the section of the river "from
the porch of the Denny's on Front Street to where the grain elevator
was erected." The only problem is that the elevator drowned out the
noise. Now, neither the Denny's nor the grain elevator exists.
"I honestly don't know if people are hearing it today," said
Ford, "but we certainly still hear the legend. We love our legends
here, like the one about Longfellow. There's no evidence he ever
came to Pascagoula, but you'll hear it."
The story goes that Henry Wadsworth Longfellow stayed at the old
estate on Pascagoula Bay called Bellevue, later renamed The
Longfellow House. The 19th century poet supposedly explored the
river and waterfront.
"We think the legend started because of his poem, 'The Building
of A Ship,' in which one line says, 'From Pascagoula's sunny
bay,'
" said Ford.
The folk tales add a sense of place; the river's ambiance sets
the scene. One ancient oak was draped in Spanish moss, and
generations heard the tale of how a Pascagoula princess climbed the
tree, vowing not to come down until her lover returned. He never
did, and her hair grew long and gray.
When the French arrived in 1699, they met what remained of the
Biloxi and Pascagoula tribes, who lived in a village on the
Pascagoula. The French named the river after the Pascagoulas,
translated "Bread People," and they named their first capital after
the Biloxis, translated "First People."
From the Biloxis, the French heard stories of the Most Ancients,
animals with magical changeling powers used to explain animal
eccentricities. One of the tales tells why the possum's tail is
hairless because, once, it was bushier than the squirrel's.
Tricked by a possum
The story involves the Ancient of Possums who killed a pesky wolf
and went down the trail singing of his misdeed. When the Ancient of
Wolves heard his words, the Wolf People captured him. Tricky possum
claimed the only way he could be killed was to be hit with a stick
from a particular tree, so off they went for the stick, leaving him
with a one-eyed guard.
Possum disappeared into a hole and when the Wolf People returned
with the proper stick, he used disguises to fool them. One last time
he disappeared into the hole but when his bushy tail stuck out the
wolves pulled at it, stripping off the hair.
The Biloxis had similar legends for other animals found in the
basin, from turkeys and red-tailed hawks to the now extinct
ivory-billed woodpeckers.
American Indians held sway on the river basin for thousands of
years. About 8500 B.C., aboriginal inhabitants were thought to have
first come to the Mississippi Coast.
Read Stowe, a Lucedale archaeologist, says evidence can be seen
in stone tools and other artifacts. He also believes the region had
mastodons, or giant elephants, though the skeletons haven't been
found. Bison, jaguars, ground sloths, giant tortoises, mountain
lions, passenger pigeons, even Caribbean seals are thought to have
roamed the basin.
"Mississippi is not an enlightened area when it comes to
archaeology," said Stowe. "Many of the sites on the Coast and in the
basin have been leveled by development. When you think about it,
humans from the beginning would build on the best sites, the safest
sites, closest to food. The next group coming along would build on
top of that, and the cycle was repeated. People destroyed earlier
settlements, not intentionally but it happened."
Some Indian mounds and shell middens remain, but most are gone or
plundered.
"These Indians were hunter-gatherers and people who lived on the
edge, so when modern people destroy mounds looking for valuables,
they won't find any," said Stowe. "Hidden Indian treasures are just
myth."
The basin tribes were first whacked by the Spanish conquerors, or
conquistadors, who killed them and introduced European diseases for
which they had no immunity. Tribes were decimated by the time the
kinder French arrived, more interested in trade than conquering.
Settlers continue digging
folklore
When the French lost the territory, many remaining coastal
Indians headed west with them to Louisiana, or to Texas, but that
didn't signal an end to life on the river. Settlers realized how
valuable the basin was for lumber and food, and outlaws realized its
hideout potential. That last fact has led to mysterious holes, even
in modern times.
Whether the famous Louisiana pirate Lafitte of Jay Higginbotham's
young imagination traversed the Pascagoula is unproven, but enough
known bad men did roam the basin.
A character named Sterling Dupree lived on the Pascagoula in the
early 1800s, but was he patriot or bandit? When the Spanish flag
flew he took it upon himself to attack the Spanish fort at
Pascagoula and next attacked longtime residents to steal slaves and
valuables.
A more modern villain was Kinnie Wagner, who made his way to
Merrill on the Pascagoula to kill the sheriff of Greene County. He
killed so many lawmen that folks in that part call him the Clyde
Barrow of Mississippi. His basin hideouts eventually yielded him up
and he died in prison in 1958.
But no criminal can steal the thunder of James Copeland, whose
mixture of truth and myth is a movie waiting to be made. Copeland,
born near Pascagoula in 1823, roamed the basin as a child, stole
from farmers and at age 13 burned down the Jackson County Courthouse
in Americus to destroy pig-stealing evidence against him.
Copeland hooked up with the famous Wages Gang but eventually
formed one of his own and pillaged a six-state area, some believe
burying goods in his basin haunts. His published memoirs and other
stories claim as much; rumors and mysterious holes attest to
believers.
"Some treasure hunters from Pascagoula found a barrel of gold in
the '70s in the swamp. I don't know who did it, but it is common
knowledge," said Johnny May. The manager of Gautier's public works
is a treasure hunter fascinated by the basin's history and potential
finds from the colonial and Civil War eras and its outlaw days.
"I've talked to three or four old-timers who said they've seen a
vault made of brick and concrete in the Pascagoula swamp. They were
fishing or hunting and tried to go back but never found it - like it
disappears."
Copeland's memoirs mention the Black Creek area but when May went
there 25 years ago to dig, the ground already looked "like a mortar
field" from all the treasure-hunting holes.
And the murderous, thieving Copeland? The outlaw was hanged at
Old Augusta in Perry County, a stone's throw from the vast,
life-giving waterway that, as a boy, had intrigued him and
generations of
others.