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| (Seated
left to right) Frank Stitt, Marvin Woods, host
Gene Edwards and John T. Edge |
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In his highly praised cookbook, Frank Stitt tells
the stories of his life. He remembers being at
his mother’s table or being in the kitchen
with people in France. “Those are all food
memories that I think move me in an emotional way,” the
chef says. “That’s something you need
to express.” These stories are part of the
acclaimed Frank Stitt’s "Southern Table:
Recipes and Gracious Traditions from Highlands
Bar and
Grill," published in 2004 and already in it’s
third printing. "Bon Appetit" has named
him a culinary legend, and his Birmingham restaurant
has been
called one of the best in the nation.
Joining Stitt at the Writers roundtable are Marvin
Woods and John T. Edge. Chef Woods owns and operates
Restaurant M Woods in Miami, is host of Turner
South’s "Home Plate," and is the author of
two cookbooks. Writing, like television, he says, “is
all about teaching. I really enjoy cooking, but
I enjoy teaching as well.” He takes pride
in his manageable recipes. “I strip back
that mystique about going in the kitchen, making
a really good meal, and not spending all day in
the kitchen.”
Recipes and reflections fill Edge’s "A Gracious
Plenty." The director of the Southern Foodways
Alliance, Edge is a prolific writer currently in
search of
America’s iconic foods—fried chicken,
apple pie, doughnuts, and hamburgers. He says that
he developed his interest in food and culture at
a barbecue joint where he grew up. “I was
fascinated by the people that came there and the
way that restaurant functioned as sort of a de
facto clubhouse for the community.”
All three authors use food to tell stories of
the south in all its diversity. “We’re
talking about an inclusive south that includes
black and white and recent immigrant, as well,” continues
Edge. “We’re using food as a lens by
which we understand the south.” He tells
of his 2004 Foodways Symposium looked at the common
bonds at the table and the shared creation of food. “We
recognize our common humanity in that plate.”
“This is true American cuisine,” Marvin
Woods adds. “I say you can’t talk about
American cuisine until you talk about southern,
because that’s where it started.” He
credits reading the first African American cookbook,
published in 1881 by Abby Fisher, as a source of
his inspiration. The food he develops and the stories
he tells all come from Africa, the Caribbean, South
America, and the southern part of the United States.
Frank Stitt tells of mixing the culinary traditions
of both black and white in his restaurant. “I
began to take greater pride in our southern ingredients,’ he
says as he weaves the black traditional food of
his restaurant family with his own small Alabama
farm food. “And sometimes with me, I’m
blending a little bit of Provence, the south of
France, with the south of the United States.” Claiming
that there is something special about southern
soil, Stitt continues, “Our southern ingredients
hadn’t really been celebrated like the French
had been doing for generations.”
According to Woods, writing a cookbook “is
a whole ‘nother language.” He speaks
of having to be shown how to write for a magazine
or a book. Stitt concurs as he tells of learning
to follow a specified style. “There’s
a real structure of how it’s going to be
and what’s going to be capitalized and where
the commas are going to go, and there is a big
learning curve.” Woods continues, “When
you’re writing a recipe for somebody to read
and go and duplicate, it must be very detail oriented.”
Not only does everything have to be checked for
grammatical accuracy and style, the recipes themselves
must be tested. “You have to test recipes
in a home environment,” continues Woods. “You
can’t test them in a professional environment.” Stitt
cooked, tested, and shot both in his restaurant
and at home. “I’m like a mechanic that’s
always fine tuning a vinaigrette,” he claims.
Edge gives his wife much credit. “I would
come home full of excitement and maybe with the
gleanings of a recipe and my wife would interpret
my shouts and stammers into a pie.”
From culinary school to acclaimed cookbooks to
fantasies of their favorite southern meals, the
these three authors bring divergent perspectives
to the table and prove that, as James Beard once
wrote, food can be a common ground. It’s
real food for thought.